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pattern grader
Pattern graders are an important link between the design and manufacturing stages of clothing production. They produce scaled-up and scaled-down versions of an original pattern (made by a pattern cutter), so that manufacturers can make the same garment in different sizes.
Many pattern graders now use computer packages for their work, instead of using traditional manual draughting techniques and size charts. Their two main methods of resizing patterns are:
- laying the pattern on a digitising table and tracing its outline with a light pen, then taking measurements at key points so the computer can adjust the size and proportions
- tracing the outline with scanning technology, which produces extremely accurate copies that can be scaled to size.
The final part of their work is to check that the computerised pattern relates to the original and send a copy to the manufacturer in the right format for the fabric cutting equipment (for example an email or paper copy).
The work of a pattern grader is often combined with pattern cutting (see Pattern Cutter profile).
Hours and Environment
As a pattern grader you will normally work 37 to 39 hours a week, Monday to Friday. You may sometimes need to work overtime to meet deadlines.
You may be part of a team of pattern graders, and work alongside pattern cutters and sample machinists in a workshop or in part of the main factory where the clothes are made up.
Skills and Interests
To be a pattern grader you need:
- an interest in fashion and trends
- the ability to work quickly and very accurately
- good numeracy skills, for measurements and calculations
- an appreciation for detail, shape and proportion
- technical drawing skills
- good concentration levels
- excellent practical ability
- good teamworking skills
- good eyesight.
Entry
You will usually start as a pattern grading assistant and work your way up to pattern grader.
You could start as an apprentice with a clothing manufacturer or fashion design company. Employers will usually ask for at least four GCSEs (A-C)/S grades (1-3), preferably including maths, English and art and design or design and technology.
Funding for apprenticeships is available for 16-24 year olds and some over-25s. To find out more, visit www.apprenticeships.org.uk. For information about apprenticeships in other parts of the UK, see Scotland, Wales and Northern Ireland.
You could also get into pattern grading or a similar technical role after a degree or BTEC HND in clothing technology and production. Some fashion design courses also include the technical skills that employers need. Relevant courses are available at several colleges and universities, including:
To search for clothing-related courses and degrees, visit the Universities and Colleges Admissions Service (UCAS) website. Entry requirements vary, so check with the college or university.
For information about careers in the clothing and textiles industries, see the Can U Cut It and the Confederation of British Wool Textiles websites in Further Information.
Training
You will be trained on the job and can also work towards a number of relevant qualifications, including:
- NVQ Levels 1 and 2 in Manufacturing Sewn Products
- NVQ Level 3 in Apparel Manufacturing Technology
- ABC Level 3 Diploma in Pattern Technology
- ABC Level 3 Award in Lay Planning and Grading for Pattern Production.
If you have a fashion-related degree, you could take part-time or intensive courses in pattern technology. These are available from several colleges and universities.
The Textile Institute also awards a range of professional qualifications for the clothing industry, including its Fellowship, Associateship and Licentiateship. See Further Information section for contact details.
Opportunities
You could work as a pattern grader anywhere in the fashion industry, from designer labels to high-street fashion retailers. You will be at an advantage if you also have an understanding of pattern cutting.
With experience, you could be promoted to head pattern grader. Alternatively, you could move into the design or buying side after further training, or you could become self-employed.
Annual Income
Figures are intended as a guideline only.
Pattern cutters and graders start between £10,000 and £15,000 a year.
Experienced cutters and graders can earn between £16,000 and £20,000.
Multi-skilled cutters/graders working for specialist or luxury clothing companies may earn more.
Further information
St James's Buildings
Oxford Street
Manchester
M1 6FQ
Tel: 0161 237 1188
Roydsdale Way
Bradford
BD4 6SB
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The information contained in our Career Profiles Database was correct at time of publishing, but since publication certain details may have changed so please use this section as a research tool and in some cases further research may be required.
Careers Database Information By Learn Direct Advice